Beirut

9:00 AM — Departure from Beirut Your private English-speaking driver collects you from your Beirut hotel and heads north — the first stop is just 20 minutes up the coast at the Dog River canyon.

Stand before one of the most remarkable open-air archives of ancient history anywhere in the world. The limestone walls of the Nahr el Kalb canyon — where the coastal road narrows to a bottleneck between the cliffs and the sea — have been carved with victory inscriptions by every major power that passed through Lebanon over three millennia. Egyptian Pharaoh Ramesses II left his mark here in 1274 BC after the Battle of Kadesh. Assyrian King Esarhaddon carved his campaign into the rock in 671 BC. Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius recorded his passage. Napoleon's French army added their own inscription in the 19th century — and remarkably, the Lebanese Republic continued the tradition with inscriptions marking independence and the withdrawal of foreign forces. No single stretch of rock in the world records the passage of so many civilisations across so many centuries. Your driver brings each inscription to life with the story behind it.